The First-Timer's Guide to Experiencing Paris in Style

For a lot of people, the first taste of Paris comes with a queue attached. There's the long line around the Louvre pyramid, the elbowing for a photo on the Trocadéro and the bistro with a laminated menu in six languages. Which can leave you wondering what all the fuss is about. The good news is that the other Paris, the one with quiet galleries and long and lazy lunches is not too far away.

Arriving Without the Taxi Queue

After a long flight, the taxi rank at Charles de Gaulle is nobody's idea of a welcome. Book a private car before you fly. You can book it through an app, but also many of the grand hotels send their own. A driver will be waiting with your name on a sign, and depending on traffic, you can be at your hotel in roughly 45 minutes to an hour.

Where to Eat

Eating well is half the reason to come to Paris, so it's worth giving the big dinner of the trip some thought. The Michelin Guide's Paris selection is a sensible place to start, and the best known tables open bookings weeks ahead. Inside the Monnaie de Paris with tall windows looking over the Seine, there is Guy Savoy, one of the city's grandest dining rooms. Over on Avenue Montaigne, the restaurant at the Plaza Athénée is now in the hands of chef Jean Imbert. When you call, ask whether there are counter seats, as a few top kitchens have them and watching the chefs at work is half the fun.

Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots, these famous pair on Boulevard Saint-Germain are best known for coffee and a spot for watching rather than dinner, since both are more on the tourist trail. A brasserie lunch of oysters and a cold glass of champagne could feel far more Parisian. And of course warm croissant from the boulangerie down the road is a must too.

And then there are the macarons. Pierre Hermé and Ladurée are the two names everyone knows, and a box makes a lovely present. For afternoon tea, the grand hotels on the Right Bank could be the right option.

The Big Sights, at a Gentler Pace

Almost no one comes to Paris for the first time and skips the Louvre. Nor should they. You can either come very early or can get the skip the line pass with a guide. The museum is busiest by late morning, so the earliest entry slot with a private guide is probably the best way to go. You will be able to see the Mona Lisa while the room is still calm, and then slip off to galleries most visitors never find.

The Eiffel Tower? Book ahead. Summit tickets sell out in high season, and a guided visit takes care of the waiting. There's a little champagne bar right at the top, which gives you enough reasons to go up around sunset.

As Notre Dame reopened in December 2024, it is surely worth visiting, A must visit district Montmartre is lovely early in the morning before the crowds climb to Sacré Cœur. You will be able share the view over the rooftops with just a few joggers and not much else. For a quieter afternoon, Musée Rodin could be a choicce, as one of the most peaceful museums in the city. Just avoid Mondays, when it's closed.

Shopping, From Avenue Montaigne to the Marais

Montaigne and Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré are lined with the flagships of Chanel, Dior and Hermès. Even just a slow walk past the windows is worth it, as the displays always change with each new collection. If there's some plan or something particular you have in mind, it is good to book a private appointment. Many of the big houses will set a quiet private salon and a stylist just for you, who can pull pieces in your size and talk you through the new collection while you try things on in peace.

The Marais is a different world. Think independent designers, vintage jewelry, concept stores and little cafés tucked down narrow streets. Plenty of shops open on Sundays here when much of the city is shut, so it's a good place to save for the end of the week.

A Few Experiences Worth Adding

There are few nicer ways to spend an evening in Paris than on a private boat on the Seine at dusk. With champagne and a board of French cheeses on hand, you'll drift past the Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay and Notre-Dame just as the lights come on along the river, and because the boat is yours, you choose the route.

Spa afternoons are another thing to plan for. Several luxury hotels, including the Ritz and the Four Seasons George V, welcome outside guests for treatments by appointment, so it's worth a phone call before you arrive.

Prefer to keep busy? A private cooking class with a French chef makes a fun morning, and you get to eat everything you make. In the warmer months, weather permitting, you can even take a hot air balloon over the gardens of Versailles. Save one evening for the Palais Garnier, too. Its gold and red auditorium, crowned by a ceiling painted by Chagall, is almost a reason to go on its own (the ballet is rather good as well).

When to Go

Late spring and early autumn are usually the best choice. From late April to early June, the city is full of blossom and evening gets longer, while September and October still have warm days yet thinner crowds. July and August are probably the busiest months, and expect some smaller restaurants to be closed for a few weeks during the summer as the owners head off on holiday.

December has its own beauty as the lights go up along the Champs-Élysées from late November. But hotels and restaurants fill fast so remember to book early.

The Art of Doing Nothing at a Café

Sit down. Order an espresso. Stay for an hour.

That's really all there is to it, and nobody in Paris will rush you. Choose a table facing the street, take your time ordering and let the next sight wait a while. The café terraces of Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the Marais are perfect for this, particularly on a weekday morning.

Getting Around

On days when you are covering a lot, private driver booked through the app or hotel is by far the most comfortable way to go. The rest of the time, walking is great too. Central Paris is surprisingly compact, and some of its best moments; a hidden courtyard, a tiny bookshop here and there, turn up on foot between the sights. Taxis and ride hailing apps works well for late nights and the trip back across the river after dinner.

Before You Go

Book the important things before you fly. Including big dinners, private tours and any spa or shopping appointments.

Pack comfortable shoes. Even with a driver you'll walk more than you expect, and there are a lot of cobbles.

Finally, expect meals to take their time. Parisians linger over lunch and dinner, and the bill rarely arrives until you ask for it, so settle in and enjoy it.

Paris, Properly

A first trip doesn't need to tick off every sight, it needs a few good bookings. Plenty of walking and at least one long lunch that drifts well into the afternoon. Of the three, that lunch is the one first timers most often skip, and honestly, it's the one they shouldn't.

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