London for First Timers

London is too big to improvise. There are more museums, theaters and tea rooms than any single visit can hold. Early tours and the tables people talk about are usually gone before the busy months begin. The good news is that you don't need a spreadsheet to get it all right. A few well chosen bookings made before before you take out the suitcase will be fine.

Afternoon Tea, Reserved Weeks Ahead

Of all the reasons to visit London, afternoon tea is the one most first timers' lists. And the grand hotels know it, which is why their tables fill weeks in advance. The format barely changes from one room to the next; finger sandwiches arrive on stands, the scones come warm enough to soften the cream, and your teapot will be topped up even before you thought to ask. What really sets each place apart is the setting, whether it has a glittering chandelier or a ceiling that the cake can wait a moment. Some of these dining rooms still expect smart dress, so a quick look at the house rules will be worth it before you go.

The West End After Dark

Seeing some of the shows from London theater deserves the whole evening. Tickets for the biggest ones usually go out early, so it is recommended to book before. Eat nearby beforehand, but book a table that promises to get you out in time. Covent Garden and Soho are still busy at eleven, so finding a bar and talking about the second act can be an nice option too.

Buckingham Palace and the Changing of the Guard

The ceremony doesn't run every day, so check the official schedule the night before. On days it runs, it usually starts late morning and the best spots along the palace are taken quick. Get there early, or watch from the Victoria Memorial steps instead. There's a full military band, a lot of precise marching and, yes, the bearskin hats.

For part of the summer, the palace opens its State Rooms to visitors. You might need a timed ticket, but also remember that slots go quickly once the season is announced.

The Tower of London, Before the Queues

Many people come for the Crown Jewels, which also means it is better to get there early. After that, join a Yeoman Warder tour. They are included with a standard ticket, and the Warders are genuinely good guides, dry and funny and full of detail. Plan it at least half a day.

Museums, Minus the Crowds

The British Museum and the V&A are both free to enter, which explains the crowds. This is where a private guide earns their fee. At the British Museum, the Rosetta Stone draws the biggest crowd in the building, and by midday you'll be peering at it over several rows of phones. A specialist guide can take you there at opening, then on to the Parthenon sculptures without any wandering through the huge floor plan. At the V&A, the fashion galleries are the obvious draw. The café, with its tiled and ornate rooms, is worth a stop even if you're not hungry.

Where to Eat

London is one of the great dining cities now. Plan one special dinner and book it the day reservations open. The Michelin Guide's London list is a decent starting point, though plenty of the city's best cooking happens in places without a star, and the grand hotel dining rooms in Mayfair are worth a look too. For a lighter lunch, Chinatown does reliable dim sum. Borough Market, by London Bridge, is better for grazing than for a proper sit down meal, so arrive hungry and walk the stalls before choosing.

If you're in town on a Sunday, have a roast in a pub. Book ahead, since good ones fill up by early afternoon. Expect roast potatoes, gravy and Yorkshire puddings (this is Britain, after all).

Harrods and Mayfair

Harrods is enormous, a little over the top and worth seeing once. Ride the Egyptian Escalator and spend some time in the Food Halls, which are as much a sight as a shop. Don't go with a list. For serious shopping, Bond Street and the streets around Mayfair are home to the flagship stores, and many will book a private appointment if you ask in advance.

A Day Beyond the City

If you have a spare day, take it, and hire a private driver for it. You'll leave when you want to and stop where you like, which matters more than it sounds. Windsor Castle is the simplest choice, under an hour away and still a working royal residence. Check opening days first, as they shift through the year. Oxford is an easy day too, with its colleges and golden stone. Stonehenge works better paired with Bath than on its own, and with a driver both fit comfortably into one day.

The Thames at Night

London looks very different from the water after dark. You pass the London Eye, the Houses of Parliament and the South Bank lit up along the way. A private evening cruise with champagne and canapés is the indulgent version, and probably the most romantic thing on this list. It works just as well on a short city break as on a longer trip.

Good to Know Before You Go

Book theater, afternoon tea and any big dinners as soon as your dates are confirmed. Summer and the weeks before Christmas are the hardest times to get anything at short notice.

Bring layers and a small umbrella, whatever the forecast says.

For getting around, black cabs can be hailed on the street and their drivers know the city remarkably well. Many hotels will also arrange a car and driver by the day, which is the easiest way to string several sights together.

Leave one afternoon empty. A walk with no destination, through a quiet mews or into a bookshop, often turns out to be a highlight.

Worth the Planning

London isn't hard to visit, but it does punish the unprepared. Book a few things that matter to you and leave the rest open.

Most people finish a first trip with a list of things they'll do next time, and that's no bad thing.

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